The 16 Best Things to Do in Rome (and Top Things to Avoid)
The 16 Best Things to Do in Rome (and Top Things to Avoid)
https://www.fodors.com/world/europe/italy/rome/experiences/news/photos/best-things-to-do-in-rome
PART II
From which Colosseum tickets you should book to the top tips for avoiding tourist traps, here’s an insider’s guide to the Eternal City.
Iknow it’s cliché, but I fell in love with Rome on my first visit. Wandering around in awe of the Baroque fountains and sculptures, weathered buildings in saturated hues of ochre, and impeccably dressed Romans, I just knew I had to live here. That was more than 15 years ago and, after many visits and a two-year stint living here, I made the move permanently in 2019 and still love the Eternal City despite its flaws.
Locals often compare Rome to a lasagna because it was built in layers over the course of more than 2,000 years. That’s what makes this city so fascinating; the deeper you dig, the more you’ll discover. As a travel writer based in Rome, it’s my job to stay up to date on the hottest new hotels, best restaurants, coolest bars, and cultural attractions, but it’s also a personal passion. Here are my insider tips for your next trip to Rome.
PHOTO: VVOEVALE
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Visit Aristocratic Palaces
One of my favorite things to do in Rome is visit museums inside aristocratic palaces, which tend to be smaller and less crowded than the city’s main sights. Palazzo Colonna, which is still partly inhabited by the noble Colonna family, is the most opulent, but the Palazzo Doria Pamphilj on Via del Corso is a close second in my opinion. Upstairs it has a hall of mirrors that’s like a smaller version of the one in Versailles. Palazzo Altemps near Piazza Navona is worth seeing for the frescoes in the loggia—and the collection of ancient sculptures is impressive too. Then there are Palazzo Barberini and Galleria Corsini, which together compose the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica. And don’t forget Villa Farnesina in Trastevere, where Raphael and his students painted eye-popping frescoes depicting the marriage of Cupid and Psyche.
PHOTO: RARRARORRO
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Visit Local Markets
Aside from the city’s traditional trattorias, the markets are among the best places to get a taste of la cucina romana. The city’s oldest market is the one in Campo de’ Fiori, but it’s lost some of its appeal because of vendors hawking cheap bottles of limoncello and spice mixes to tourists. For a more authentic experience, head to the Mercato di Testaccio, where you can see fruit and vegetable vendors, cheese mongers, and butchers, and can get some of the city’s best pizza al taglio at Casa Manco or try a panino filled with tripe at Mordi e Vai. Just keep in mind that most markets are only open in the mornings and may be closed on Sundays.
PHOTO: RESUL MUSLU
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Eat Your Fill of Gelato
Is there ever a bad time for gelato? I don’t think so. Just don’t fall for the industrially produced stuff, which usually appears piled high and sometimes sports bright, unnatural colors to attract unsuspecting tourists. Real, artisanal gelato made using natural ingredients comes in more muted colors and sits flat or sometimes covered in metal containers, which keeps it cold and fresh. My favorite gelateria hands-down is the Gelateria del Teatro near Piazza Navona, but I also love the old school vibes and ample flavors at Giolitti near the Pantheon. Every Roman has their favorite—ask around for suggestions and try them all.
PHOTO: KONSTANTINOS PAPAIOANNOU
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Relax With an Aperitivo
Sitting down for an aperitivo is a beloved pastime all over Italy, but I think Romans have perfected it. Whether you go to a no-frills bar for a €5 Aperol Spritz or splurge on a €25 cocktail at one of the city’s swankiest rooftop bars, aperitivo is meant to be a time to catch up with friends and family over a pre-meal drink. And because this is Italy, there are always some snacks involved. These can range from peanuts and potato chips to canapés by Michelin-starred chefs—and generally they’re included in the price of a drink. On the affordable side, I recommend , a classic wine bar in Monti, or the pop-up bar L’Oratorio Trastevere, which has casual seating and lawn games. For an unforgettable experience, book a table at the Court, which serves creative cocktails with knock-out views of the Colosseum, or Chorus Café, a hidden gem near the Vatican with a glamorous vibe and cocktails by one of the best bartenders in the city.
PHOTO: IXUSKMITL
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Explore Trastevere
Most of Rome’s major sites are located in and around the centro storico, but you’d be remiss not to cross the Tiber and spend some time wandering around Trastevere. Once a working-class neighborhood and a bohemian enclave, it’s got those quintessential village vibes, with cobblestone streets and ivy-draped, weathered buildings with laundry hanging out the windows. Nowadays, Trastevere is a major hub for restaurants and bars, so it can get crowded and noisy in the evenings. To see the neighborhood when it’s calmer, go during the day, when you can visit a museum like Villa Farnesina or Galleria Corsini and have lunch at an old-school trattoria such as Da Enzo al 29 or Trattoria Da Teo.
PHOTO: CAUBAYDON
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Shop for Unique Souvenirs
Skip the souvenir shops selling cheap trinkets made in China and pick up something special at one of Rome’s independent boutiques. From beautiful stationery to jewelry, there’s something for everyone—and every budget. You could pick up a hand-carved marble plaque with a witty Roman saying at La Bottega del Marmoraro on Via Margutta, buy a print or poster by a local artist at Spazio Decore near the Pantheon, or go home with a chic bag from the cult concept shop Chez Dédé. For jewelry, Co.Ro makes unique pieces inspired by the architecture of the city’s monuments, while Serra sells necklaces and other items made with ancient Roman coins. Talk about a one-of-a-kind gift!
PHOTO: BALKANSCAT
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Things to Avoid: Tourist Trap Restaurants
If you want to eat well in Rome, avoid the tourist traps hawking frozen food to tourists at jacked-up prices. How can you tell them apart from good restaurants? If there’s a big menu in English outside, a guy trying to lure you inside, or a big window where you can see ladies making fresh pasta, it’s probably a tourist trap. Instead, do some research and make reservations. The most authentic restaurants—from casual trattorias to fine dining restaurants—book up in advance, so without a reservation you won’t get a table. Keep in mind that most traditional Roman restaurants start serving dinner no earlier than 7 p.m. (and that’s considered early by Roman standards), so places that serve dinner before that are catering to tourists.
PHOTO: JOSE HERNANDEZ
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Things to Avoid: Getting Pickpocketed
If you ask me, the risk of getting pickpocketed in Rome has been exaggerated by the media and social media influencers, but it can happen. You don’t necessarily need a specially designed purse or fanny pack, but it’s a good idea to use a crossbody bag with a closure and keep it in front of you, with your hand on it in crowded places. If you’re carrying a larger bag, keep it right under your shoulder. Don’t put your wallet or phone in a coat pocket or back pocket when in crowded places, including on the metro and buses. And always keep an eye on your bag in restaurants and bars.
PHOTO: RESULMUSLU
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Things to Avoid: Fare Dodging on Public Transit
In theory, it’s easy to ride Rome’s buses and trams without paying since the drivers don’t collect tickets, but it’s not really worth the risk. Plus, since the entire public transit system accepts contactless payment now, you don’t have any excuse for fare dodging. Ticket controllers will randomly come onto the buses to check, especially on tourist-heavy routes. They speak enough English to issue you a fine and no amount of pleading or crying will work on them. A ticket costs €1.50 but if you don’t have a validated ticket, you can be fined €54.90. It’s just not worth taking that chance.
PHOTO: ANTHONY MAJANLAHTI
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Must-Try Restaurants: Da Francesco
WHERE: Piazza Navona
Opened in 1957 by Francesco Boni and Amalia Tognoloni, this casual osteria on a charming cobblestone street near Piazza Navona is a favorite among locals and in-the-know travelers. Da Francesco is now run by the third generation of the Boni family, who are keeping Roman culinary traditions alive. Be sure to book ahead and ask for a table outside. Stick with classics like carbonara, amatriciana, and cacio e pepe, and don’t skip the homemade focaccia.
Expedia Group continues B2B growth, acquires AI platforms
OTA posts 6% increase in booked room nights in second quarter
This past quarter was Expedia's 20th consecutive quarter of double-digit growth for B2B, with a 23% increase in B2B revenue and a 21% increase in gross B2B in gross bookings. (Getty Images)
https://www.costar.com/article/481838566/expedia-group-continues-b2b-growth-acquires-ai-platforms?
In the second quarter of the year, Expedia Group again outperformed its expectations, seeing a 6% increase year over year in booked room nights and a 12% increase in total gross bookings.
"We exceeded the high end of both our top- and bottom-line expectations for the fifth quarter in a row, growing bookings 12%, revenue 14% and adjusted [earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortization] 23%," said CEO Ariane Gorin. "Based on our first-half results and the ongoing trends we're seeing, we're raising our full-year guidance."
Derek Andersen, who joined Expedia as chief financial officer in April, said Expedia's adjusted EBITDA was $1.1 billion. Driving operating cost efficiencies was a top goal for Expedia last quarter, Gorin said, and the company expanded margins by 2 points.
"The margin expansion was driven by a combination of cost efficiencies, consumer marketing leverage and the flow-through of higher volume," Andersen said. "We continue to generate strong free cash flow, which reached $4.5 billion on a trailing 12-month basis, and this has fueled the return of capital to shareholders."
He added that Expedia's raised outlook now includes full-year gross bookings growth of 8% to 9%, which is in the range of $129.5 billion to $130.8 billion.
Expedia continues to invest in artificial intelligence, and Gorin said the company's approach includes focusing on two categories for the technology.
"There's what are we doing with AI and our product right now that is delivering results in our core business," she said. "And then the second is what are we doing in our product that's not necessarily delivering conversion right now, but we know is helping us better understand travelers and is going to have compounding benefits over time."
Expedia is staying at the forefront of adopting new AI services and recently acquired Layla, a conversational travel planning app, Gorin said. The company also launched an agentic voice solution with VRBO.
"More broadly, our agentic technology stack is allowing us to design and ship products faster, ultimately unlocking new capabilities for both travelers and partners," Gorin said. "As we scale these capabilities, we're managing token costs thoughtfully while giving broad access to our teams."
Expedia's B2B unit continues to lead its overall outperformance, and this past quarter was the company's 20th consecutive quarter of double-digit growth for B2B with a 23% increase in B2B revenue and 21% increase in gross B2B in gross bookings.
Gorin said it's a priority for Expedia to continue to invest in its B2B business. In May, the company announced it would acquire car rental and insurance platform CarTrawler.
"There's investments going into the B2B segment to drive that one-stop shop and build out our lines of business," Andersen said.
By the numbers
Expedia Group's revenue rose 14%, led by B2B's 23% year-over-year growth, according to the company's earnings release.
During the second quarter, Expedia repurchased approximately 880,000 shares for $200 million.
As of press time, Expedia’s stock was trading at $319.66 per share, up 13% year to date. The NASDAQ Composite was up 13.5% for the same period.
Everyone Goes to St. Barths to Show Off. I Went to Disappear.
hugo allard © Hotel Christopher
https://www.fodors.com/world/caribbean/st-barthelemy/experiences/news/on-st-barths-the-greatest-luxury-is-staying-out-of-the-spotlight
Don't look at me.
Visibility has become normalized—even expected. We don’t go on vacation anymore; we produce it. Every dinner is documented, every relaxing photo is staged, every sunset put up for consumption. And the attention can be intoxicating. But to be recognized, you have to be seen.
I can’t stand being seen. I basically live in hiding. I don’t have social media. I’m vague about my biographical details. I really don’t love the idea that you’re reading this right now. I can’t even believe I’m writing in first person! So why would I ever agree to go somewhere where performance is the ethos?
The French-Caribbean island of Saint Barthélemy is known for its extravagance. It has a reputation as an A-list destination for those who enjoy the finer things. The people who visit are known. The one percent, athletes, and celebrities, as well as the “billionaire yacht circuit” crowd—people like tech moguls, sports owners, and celebrity-adjacent ultra-wealthy guests—have made St. Barths an unofficial capital for the global luxury set. The wealth is blatantly material. The bags are designer, the wines are vintage, the yachts are oversized.
And I’m positively covetous!
I wanted to go to the Caribbean’s most visible island because I love luxury. I want to indulge! But I hate attention, and luxurious things often command it. And in St. Barths, wealth isn’t just possessed, it’s performed. The island’s reputation depends on that visibility. Visitors are constantly reminded that it’s time to drink Champagne and dance on tables. It’s a part of the see-and-be-seen nature of St. Barths: ostentatious, boisterous, outlandish. I wanted to go to the place where the global elite eat, drink, and party–but I’m no performer. I’m more of a judgmental audience member.
But where can an anti-social gal looking for over-the-top luxury find some peace and privacy?
With just two days to explore, I decided I’d drive around the island to see if I could find it. Little did I know that the island’s roads are narrow with short sea walls, and the locals drive as if they aren’t hanging off the side of a cliff. I was shaking so badly with fear that I was willing to stop anywhere. And I wanted to check out the top beach.
I had heard about Eden Rock, the hotel at the center of the island’s social scene, known for its rompus gatherings and buzzy energy. It’s also famous for its seaside sights, butting up against the airport’s runway, meaning you can sit and watch the propeller planes take off and land right from your beach chair. It’s a quintessential view for anyone visiting St. Barths, and a fabulous place to imbibe and indulge. I’ll pass on the hobnobbing, but I’ll be damned if I’m going to let a bit of social anxiety keep me from an unmissable vista. And so I dodged the typical beach club and ducked into Pearl Beach Hotel, less than a mile down the road, to taste the experience but avoid the scene. It was a quietly celebrated success! The small, family-owned boutique hotel and beach club offered a way to drink in the definitive panorama without the crowds. I lay in a beach chair, soaking up the views. The aircraft zipped to and fro just above my toes. If anyone was capturing the moment for the internet, they were drowned out by the roaring engines of propeller planes taking off.
Next, I took a walking tour around Gustavia, the island’s main town. The island was once owned by the Swedish, now by the French, and the town is fabulously historic and quaint. There’s Fort Gustav, the remains of a Swedish fort on a hill overlooking the harbor; the Anglican Church of Saint Bartholomew, built in 1855; the Municipal Museum, housed in one of the most meticulously restored and significant stone buildings of the Swedish period. Then there’s the real estate–private villas and residences with square footage to fit a family of 20. A study reveals that St. Barths is the best luxury Airbnb destination worldwide. And the shopping! Louis Vuitton, Prada, Dior, Celine, and Dolce & Gabbana. I lusted over silk scarves and perfectly stitched leather gloves, but I eventually needed a break from the logos. Gustavia is famous for its fine dining and slick eateries, but I had heard of another can’t-miss restaurant experience, and my FOMO was yet again setting in.
I summoned my courage and took a table at the much-fêted local bistro Le Café, which takes flamboyance to a new level. It’s famous for its backdrop of fantastic live music in a superbly atmospheric French café. I avoided the crowds by arriving as soon as the doors opened for dinner–7:30 pm is not a traditional suppertime for the French, I suppose.
When they arrived, the patrons were specific: those on dates had disturbing age gaps, and those in groups were ready to get rowdy. The three-piece band, comprised of vocals, guitar, and piano, plays a tight set of French favorites for diners to drunkenly sing along to as they scoop Michelin-grade caviar and sip Veuve. The performances are ovation-worthy, and the band is beloved by the audience–they’re local celebrities by all accounts. The diners recorded every moment of the night’s concert with phones waving in the air, singing along at obscene volume, and chat-screaming across tables, but tipping well and applauding enthusiastically. The experience is surprisingly enchanting, with very good vibes. I just had to dodge the cameras and stay out of the background of selfies.
I left Gustavia with a smile and a headache. I had done my part to see what the wild rumpus was all about; now, I was ready for the quietest place on St. Barths to retreat. I escaped to the other end of the island at the Hotel Christopher Saint-Barth. Finally, all the luxurious trappings I had been seeking without the ostentatious branding or hashtags. The indicators are there if you know how to read them—Hermès orange, Sisley in the spa—but nothing insists on being noticed, documented, circulated. The spa is, in fact, so private that you can shower outside with a view of the ocean and not be seen. I could have hidden there all day. It is as if the extravagance is meant to be kept a secret, rather than advertised.
But in a surprising twist, it turns out I wasn’t the only one seeking a break from the performance. The band from Le Café seemed to agree. The day after leading a roomful of revelers through boozy sing-alongs, the local celebrities had decamped to the pool deck at Hotel Christopher. Stretched out beside me, they ordered burgers and frites and lingered in the afternoon sun. No one was filming content. Nobody was proposing in the infinity pool. People were reading books.
Stay hidden at Hotel Christopherhugo allard © Hotel Christopher
It occurred to me that perhaps even on the most visible island in the Caribbean, everyone eventually wants the same thing. Not another audience. Not another table dance. Not another chance to prove they’re having a fabulous time. Just the freedom to enjoy it.
Later that afternoon, those same planes, yesterday above my toes, now traced white lines across the sky above Saint-Jean Bay. Nobody reached for a phone–certainly not me. For once, there was nothing to document and no one to impress. The greatest luxury in St. Barths, I discovered, isn’t being seen. It’s disappearing.
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